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When curating a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop achieving such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Outranking the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is most important is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.